Seven recipes translated by Peter G. Rose
A selection of recipes from The sensible cook as shown in:
The Sensible Cook. Dutch Foodways in the Old and the New World.
Translated and edited by Peter G. Rose. Syracuse University Press 1998
To make a sumptuous Olipodrigo
To cook Pot-Herbs
To stew mutton
To make a sweet Spring Chicken-pastey
To fry Olie-koecken
To candy green Walnuts
To prepare a Lemon-hart
To make an Almond-TaertTo make a sumptuous Olipodrigo
Verjuice: juice from unripe grapes or apples.
Take a clean Capon, Lamb, Veal, Beef, cook it until almost done, then take Sausages, Pigs' feet, Sheep's feet, and a krap [piece of port with bone in], two Marrow-bones, some little Veal meatballs, cook those together until almost done, Endive cooked for a while, and add Sweetbreads with Ram balls, let it stew together with the Endive in your pot; add whole Pepper and Mace and pieces of Nutmeg, then place the Sheep's and Pig's feet on the bottom and layer the other meat proportionately, let it stew together for half or three fourth of an hour, then pour off the broth, in the same [broth] add 4 or 5 Egg yolks which have been beaten with some Verjuice1, do add some Butter and let it come to a boil together; pour this over everything after you have put it [the meats] in the dish. Also take Chestnuts, Asparagus, or Artichokes, according to the time of the Year, add those [after they are done] to the dish, sprinkle the rim or the entire dish [with] two hard boiled Egg yolks, crushed Rusk, and Parsley which has been cut with the others [egg yolks and the rusk]. Is good.To cook Pot-Herbs
Take clean Well-water, add one or two stale round White breads, depending on how much you want to cook, hang it [the pan] over the fire. In the meantime cut the Pot-Herbs: Chervil, Beet, a few blades of Mace, Borage, or Bugloss, the first tiny leaves of the black Currants and of Calendulas, also Leek and Catnip, a little Spinach, but not Sorrel that would make it too greyish [in color], when it [all] is cut up fine and the water and bread have boiled for a while until it [the bread] has dissolved. Add [the Pot-Herbs] to it and let it boil until done then Butter and Salt as you desire.To stew Mutton
Take Mutton; cut into large pieces, well cooked and skimmed, add to it long pieces of Parsnips, and furthermore all sort of greens coarsely chopped, and some Pepper and Salt; thus cooking and stewing these together until the Mutton is done. Serve with the broth in a Dish in which Wheat bread has been cut beforehand.To make a sweet Spring Chicken-pastey
Take the Spring Chicken boiled a little while, place it in the Pastey1, spice it with Cinnamon, Cloves, a little Nutmeg, and Ginger, place with it Damson Prunes, candied Pears en Cherries, Sucade, Pine Nuts and Butter; let it bake for an hour. The sauce should be made with Wine and Sugar. Or otherwise sweet Cream heated with Egg yolks and Sugar, then it is also called a sweet Cream pastey.Pastey: a sturdy raised crust containing a savory or sweet filling, with a lid.
See illustration.
To fry Olie-koecken
For 2 pond1 of Wheat-flour take 2 pond long Raisins, when they have been washed clean soak them in lukewarm water, a cup of the best Apples, peel them and cut them in very small pieces without the cores, a quarter pond or one and a half [quarter pond: 6 ounces] peeled Almonds, a loot2 Cinnamon, a quarter loot white Ginger, a few Cloves this crushed together, half a small bowl of melted Butter, a large spoon Yeast, and not quite a pint3 of lukewarm sweet Milk, because it must be a thick batter [so thick] that the batter is tough when spooned and then everything stirred together. Let it rise then take a mengelen4 of the best Rapeseed [Colza] oil, add a crust of Bread, a half Apple. Place it on the fire and let it burn, keep turning the bread and Apple until it blackens and hardens, then pour in a dash of clean water, let it cool in the air, then put it back on the fire when you want to use it.1 pond: about 430 grams
2 loot: about 15 grams
3 pint: about 0,65 liter
4 mengelen: two pints = about 1,3 liter
To candy green Walnuts
Pick the Nuts on St.John['s Day: June 24] before the pit is hard, with a small pin prick several holes in them, soak them for 9 or 10 days and refresh [the water] often then boil in a little water and then boil in Sugar or Syrup, but at least four times as long as for lemons or Orange, when the membrane is removed and Cloves or Cinnamon have been stuck in them, cook them adding some Honey or Sugar once in a while as they boil away, then leave in the syrup. You can keep them for a long time this way.
To prepare a Lemon-hart
1 pond: about 430 grams
Take minced Veal just like for Meatballs, add to it Nuttmeg, Pepper, and Salt as well as peels of a fresh Lemon cut into small pieces, for each pond1 of meat an Egg Yolk, a crushed Rusk and mix it all together, shape it in the form of a large Meatball or in the form of a Heart, stew it with a little water. When done take off the fat, add Verjuice2, Butter, and peels of a salted Lemon which has been boiled in water first. Let it come to a boil together, then dish up; a sauce is poured over made from Verjuice beaten with Egg yolks.2 Verjuice: juice from unripe grapes
To make an Almond-Taert 1
Take a half pond 2 peeled Almonds, a quarter pond Sugar, 3 whole Eggs with the whites and 3 more Egg yolks, an eight of a pond of sweet Butter, Rosewater as much as necessary to crush the Almonds3: first thoroughly sprinkle the [baking] sheet that you are using with Wheat-flour.
Taert: a collective noun, indicating a baked good made from a short-crust dough containing a variety of mostly sweet, but sometimes savory fillings, resembling a tart, flan, patty, pie, or pastry. A taert usually does not have a lid, although The sensible Cook provides several exceptions to this rule. In modern Dutch usage, the term is also used for cake.
pond: about 430 grams
Almonds: Making almond paste in a mortar with a pestle is a tedious and time-consuming task. The addition of rosewater is necessary to prevent the paste from becoming oily.
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